Saturday, November 29, 2025

Ratios by Michael Ruhlman

Doughs & Batters

Bread:

  • 5 parts flour: 3 parts water (plus yeast and salt)

Pasta Dough:

  • 3 parts flour: 2 parts egg

Pie Dough:

  • 3 parts flour: 2 parts fat: 1 part water

Biscuit:

  • 3 parts flour: 1 part fat: 2 parts liquid

Cookie Dough:

  • 1 part sugar: 2 parts fat: 3 parts flour

Pâte à Choux:

  • 2 parts water: 1 part butter: 1 part flour: 2 parts egg

Pound Cake:

  • 1 part butter: 1 part sugar: 1 part egg: 1 part flour

Sponge Cake:

  • 1 part egg: 1 part sugar: 1 part flour: 1 part butter

Angel Food Cake:

  • 3 parts egg white: 3 parts sugar: 1 part flour

Quick Bread:

  • 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: 1 part butter

Muffin:

  • 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: 1 part butter

Fritter:

  • 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg

Pancake:

  • 2 parts flour: 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: ½ part butter

Popover:

  • 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg: 1 part flour

Crepe:

  • 1 part liquid: 1 part egg: ½ part flour

 

Stocks & Sauces

Stock:

  • 3 parts water: 2 parts bones

Consommé:

  • 12 parts stock: 3 parts meat: 1 part mirepoix: 1 part egg white

Roux:

  • 3 parts flour: 2 parts fat

Thickening Ratio:

  • 10 parts liquid: 1 part roux

Beurre Manié:

  • 1 part flour: 1 part butter (by volume)

Slurry:

  • 1 part cornstarch: 1 part water (by volume)

Thickening Rule:

  • 1 tablespoon starch will thicken 1 cup liquid

Meat

Sausage:

  • 3 parts meat: 1 part fat

Sausage Seasoning: 60 parts meat/fat: 1 part salt

Mousseline: 8 parts meat: 4 parts cream: 1 part egg

Brine: 20 parts water: 1 part salt

Fat-Based Sauces

Mayonnaise:

  • 20 parts oil: 1 part liquid (plus yolk)

Vinaigrette:

  • 3 parts oil: 1 part vinegar

Hollandaise:

  • 5 parts butter: 1 part yolk: 1 part liquid

Custards & Sauces

Free-standing Custard:

  • 2 parts liquid: 1 part egg

Crème: 4 parts milk/cream: 1 part yolk: 1 part sugar

Chocolate Sauce:

  • 1 part chocolate: 1 part cream

Caramel Sauce: 1 part sugar: 1 part cream

Friday, November 28, 2025

Quick soft dinner rolls (about 12)

This is adapted from several one‑hour and quick‑rise roll formulas to stay simple and fast.

Ingredients

  • 2.5 tsp. instant or rapid-rise yeast (1 packet)
  • 240 ml (1 cup) warm water or milk (about 43–49°C)
  • 37 g sugar (about 3 tbsp)
  • 43 g 3 tbsp) unsalted butter, very soft (plus extra for brushing)
  • 5 g salt (about 1 tsp)
    • I used 1 tsp Rosemary salt and sprinkled some on top of the rolls as well.
  • 300–360 g all-purpose flour (bread flour worked really well)

Method (about 90 minutes total)

  1. Combine warm liquid, yeast, and sugar; let sit 5 minutes until foamy.
  2. Add butter, salt, and about 300 g flour; mix and knead 3–5 minutes, adding more flour as needed until smooth and slightly sticky dough forms.
  3. Let rise covered 20–30 50 - 60 minutes in warm spot until puffed. 
  4. Punch down, divide into 12 pieces (~50–60 g each), shape into balls, place in greased pan.
  5. Let rise again 15–25  50 - 60 minutes until visibly larger.
  6. Bake in preheated oven at 190–200°C (375–400°F) for 13–20 minutes until golden. Brush hot rolls with melted butter.
References: 

Rosemary Salt (That Dude Can Cook)

 

Weight Measurements

  • 250 grams kosher salt
  • 16 grams fresh rosemary leaves
  • 8 grams fresh sage leaves
  • 20 grams fresh garlic
  • 3 grams fresh lemon zest

 

Volume Measurements

  • 1 cup kosher salt
  • 14 sprigs rosemary, leaves stripped
  • 8 sprigs sage, leaves stripped
  • 3–5 cloves garlic
    (3 if large, 5 if small)
  • 1 lemon, zested

 

Thanksgiving Stuffing (Sage & Sausage) - That Dude Can Cook

 

Ingredients

  • 18 cups bread of choice, cubed and toasted or air dried
    (e.g., 1 1/2 loaves sourdough) (we used a 2.5 lb loaf of sourdough from Costco)
  • 1 1/2 pounds sausage of choice (optional) (we used turkey breakfast sausage.)
  • 2 sweet or yellow onions, large dice
  • 4 celery stalks, large dice
  • 5 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 8 oz unsalted butter (6 oz. plus save 2 oz for the dish and top)
  • 2 tbsp chopped sage
  • 1 tbsp chopped rosemary
  • 2 tsp herbs de Provence
  • 10 sprigs thyme, stripped
  • 4 1/2 cups turkey or chicken stock
  • 1 cup turkey or chicken stock mixed with 3 eggs
  • Salt and pepper to taste

 

Instructions

  1. Prep the bread
    • Slice bread into cubes.
    • Dry in a 250°F oven for 45–60 minutes until hard, or leave out overnight.
  2. Cook the sausage
    • Heat neutral oil in a pan over mediumhigh.
    • Brown sausage until cooked through (about 10 minutes).
    • Transfer to a bowl, reserving grease if desired.
  3. Sauté aromatics
    • Melt half the butter in the same pan.
    • Add onion and celery; cook until softened.
    • Stir in garlic, rosemary, sage, thyme, and herbes de Provence.
    • Season lightly with salt and pepper.
  4. Combine base
    • In a large bowl, mix dried bread cubes, sausage, and onion mixture.
    • Deglaze pan with stock and pour over bread.
    • Whisk eggs into 1 cup of stock, then fold into stuffing mixture.
  5. Prepare baking dish
    • Rub butter generously along the pan edges and bottom.
    • Transfer stuffing mixture, pressing lightly without flattening the top.
    • Brush melted butter across the surface.
  6. Bake
    • Bake at 375°F for 30–45 minutes until golden brown.
    • Rest 15–20 minutes before serving.

 

🍴 Notes

  • Butter rubbed on the pan edges ensures crispy corners.
  • Eggs add richness and a custardy center but are optional.
  • Pair with gravy and mashed potatoes for a complete Thanksgiving spread.

 

Roasted Mushroom & Green Bean Casserole via NY Times

By Millie Peartree (NYT Cooking / CBS News)

Total Time: ~45 minutes

Yield: 10–12 servings

 

🛒 Ingredients

  • 2½ lbs haricots verts (French green beans), trimmed & cut into 1inch pieces (we left them whole)
  • 1 lb hen of the woods mushrooms (or cremini/oyster/button), bitesize pieces (we used Costco mushrooms)
  • 2 large shallots, halved & thinly sliced
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tbsp extravirgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt & black pepper
  • 2 tbsp unsalted butter
  • 2 tbsp allpurpose flour
  • 1 quart heavy cream (or halfandhalf) - this is way too much and way too heavy. Maybe 1/2 quart or 2 cups of half and half.
  • 1 tsp Cajun seasoning or maybe rosemary salt
  • ½ tsp onion powder
  • ½ tsp garlic powder
  • ½ tsp chicken base concentrate (or ½ bouillon cube)
  • ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1¾ cups grated Parmesan (divided)
  • 1 cup panko bread crumbs
  • 2 cups fried shallots or onions (storebought or homemade)

 

👩‍🍳 Instructions

  1. Prep oven → Heat to 400°F. Spray a 9×13 baking dish with nonstick spray.
  2. Roast veggies → On a parchmentlined sheet pan, toss beans, mushrooms, shallots, garlic, and olive oil. Season with salt & pepper. Roast ~30 min, tossing halfway.
    • Option: For softer beans, add 3 tbsp water, cover with foil, roast 30–45 min.
  3. Make sauce → In saucepan, melt butter over mediumlow. Add flour, whisk 1–2 min until golden. Slowly whisk in cream, cook 6–8 min until thickened.
  4. Season & enrich → Add Cajun seasoning, onion & garlic powders, chicken base, nutmeg, pepper. Stir in 1½ cups Parmesan until melted. Adjust seasoning.
  5. Combine → Add roasted beans & mushrooms to sauce. Toss until heated through. Transfer to baking dish.
  6. Top & broil → Mix panko, fried shallots, and remaining ¼ cup Parmesan. Spread over casserole. Broil on high 1–2 min until golden & bubbly.
  7. Serve hot → Straight from oven, crisp topping intact.

 

📝 Notes

  • Texture balance: Roasting deepens flavor; broiling ensures crunch.
  • Makeahead: Assemble up to step 5, refrigerate, then top & broil before serving.
  • Variations: Swap mushrooms, adjust spice blend, or use vegan cream alternatives.

 

Sunday, November 23, 2025

Pasta e Fagioli (Tuscan Bean & Pasta Soup)

 This is not your Nonna’s pasta e fagioli. Found this on Italia Squisita on youTube.


Author:
Aurelio Barattini, L’Antica Locanda di Sesto, Lucca

Tradition: 4 generations, 100+ years in the restaurant

Ingredients

  • 1 lb cranberry beans (PennMac has them in the bulk food bins)
  • 4–5 garlic cloves
  • Fresh sage leaves
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 1 celery stalk, diced
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 2–3 5 - 6 tbsp tomato paste
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • Salt & black pepper
  • Fresh rosemary
  • 2–3 small chili peppers
  • 1–2 tbsp lard (optional, for flavor)
  • 12 oz. Ditalini pasta (spelt pasta preferred)

Instructions

  1. Soak Beans (Night Before):
    • Place beans in water with garlic cloves and sage. Leave overnight. (I started in the morning and soaked for 3 hours, then pressure cooked.)
  2. Cook Beans (Morning):
    • Drain soaking water.
    • Add beans, garlic, and sage, to a pot with fresh water, and a drizzle of olive oil.
    • Boil for 2–2.5 hours until tender. (Alternatively, use the instant pot “Bean” setting, 30 minutes high and then release.)
    • Strain beans, reserving cooking water. Keep a handful of whole beans aside.
  3. Prepare Mirepoix:
    • Sauté carrot, celery, and onion in olive oil until lightly browned.
    • Stir in tomato paste and cook until dark.
    • Add chili, rosemary, and sage and cook a little longer
    • Add drained beans to pot.
    • Crush remaining beans through a sieve into the mirepoix, thinning with cooking water. (I just mashed with a potato masher.)
    • Return bean cooking liquid to pot and simmer until creamy.
  4. Cook Pasta:
    • Add pasta to the broth. Cook longer than package directions (e.g., 15 minutes instead of 9) for a softer texture.
    • Add reserved whole beans back in. Adjust salt. (No salt anywhere else in this recipe, so you'll need a lot!)
  5. Finish & Serve:
    • Ladle into bowls.
    • Drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle black pepper, and garnish with sage leaves.
    • Parmesan is optional, believe it or not.

 
Notes

  • First trial was with the smaller amount of tomato paste. We think more will be better.
  • This dish is considered a “poor dish” of Tuscan tradition, but rich in taste and history.
  • I enjoyed this when it was freshly cooked. It did not age well in the fridge. It became thick and unappetizing. Next time will not smash the beans.

 

Friday, October 17, 2025

White-Poached Chicken with Chinese Cabbage and Peanut Rayu (adapted from Ottolenghi Comfort.)

Ingredients

Chicken and Cabbage

  • 4 small boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 lb 5 oz/600g)

  • 4 tsp Shaoxing wine

  • 10g ginger (peeled and finely grated, about ⅓ oz)

  • 2 tsp peanut oil

  • 1 large Chinese cabbage (napa or wombok), thinly sliced (about 4½ cups/400g)

  • 1 cup (20g) basil leaves, torn

  • 6 green onions, finely sliced on the diagonal (about ¾ cup/60g)

  • 1–2 limes, cut into wedges, to serve

  • Salt

Peanut Rayu

  • 1 cup (240ml) peanut oil or other flavorless oil

  • 3 tbsp chile flakes (ideally Korean gochugaru, or an equal mix of regular chile flakes and Aleppo pepper flakes)

  • Note- I used Italian pepper flakes and this may have been a bit too hot, so maybe 2 tbsp?)

  • Scant 1 cup (120g) unsalted roasted peanuts, roughly chopped in a food processor

  • 4 large garlic cloves, chopped

  • ⅓ cup (35g) sesame seeds

  • 2 tbsp soy sauce

  • 2 tbsp granulated sugar

  • 1 tsp flaked sea salt

Instructions

  1. Make the Peanut Rayu:

    • Put the oil and chile flakes into a small pan and place over medium-low heat.

    • When the oil starts simmering, add the peanuts, garlic, and sesame seeds. Cook for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.

    • Add soy sauce, sugar, and flaked sea salt, then set aside to cool and decant into a sealed jar. (Ideally make a day ahead; it keeps up to 2 weeks in the fridge.)

  2. Prepare the Chicken:

    • Half an hour before cooking, remove chicken breasts from the fridge to bring to room temperature.

    • When ready to cook, fill a large pot (with tight-fitting lid) with 6⅓ cups (1½ liters) of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

    • Once boiling, add chicken breasts, stir quickly, cover with lid, and turn off heat. Let sit, undisturbed, for 1 hour.

    • Strain chicken and discard poaching liquid.

  3. Finish the Dish:

    • When the chicken is cool enough to handle, discard the skin and tear chicken into long shreds. Place in a large mixing bowl.

    • Add Shaoxing wine, ginger, peanut oil, and ½ teaspoon salt. Set aside for at least 5 minutes.

    • Just before serving, add sliced cabbage and most of the basil. Toss well to combine.

    • Transfer to a serving plate and spoon peanut rayu on top.

    • Finish with green onions and remaining basil leaves.

    • Serve with lime wedges on the side.

Notes

  • The key technique is poaching chicken in just-boiled water at room temperature for 1 hour; ensure the chicken is not cold or it will not cook through properly.

  • Peanut rayu adds rich, aromatic flavor and can be used over other dishes like eggs, noodles, or celery.

  • Serves 4.

Ratios by Michael Ruhlman

Doughs & Batters Bread: 5 parts flour: 3 parts water (plus yeast and salt) Pasta Dough: 3 parts flour: 2 parts eg...